Retinoid type
Encapsulated retinol for slow release and the most tolerable entry. HPR binds retinoid receptors directly with no conversion step — faster visible results, premium price point. Retinaldehyde sits in between.
Retinol works. The problem has never been efficacy — it’s tolerability and shelf stability. We build the formula so customers get past week three, and the packaging so the retinoid is still active when they finish the bottle.
Standard configuration below. Every line item is adjustable — this is a starting point, not a fixed recipe.
| Product type | Facial serum, leave-on, night use |
|---|---|
| Key actives | Encapsulated retinol 0.25–1.0%, or hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) 0.1–0.3%, optional retinaldehyde 0.05–0.1% |
| Buffer system | Ceramide NP/AP/EOP complex 1–2% · squalane 3% · bisabolol 0.2% · panthenol 1% |
| Format | Light oil-in-water emulsion-serum, non-greasy finish |
| pH | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Viscosity | 1,500 – 4,000 cps (Brookfield, 25°C) |
| Appearance / odor | Off-white to pale ivory, odor-free or lightly fragranced |
| Packaging options | 15 / 30 ml airless pump with oxygen-barrier liner, opaque or amber. Jars not recommended. |
| Shelf life | 24 months unopened, 6 months PAO |
| MOQ | Flexible / Customizable — from 1,000 pcs in stock packaging |
| Lead time | Samples 7–10 days · production 30–40 days after approval |
| Documentation | COA, MSDS, PIF, retinoid assay (HPLC), stability report, EU vitamin A labeling guidance, MoCRA support |
Encapsulated retinol for slow release and the most tolerable entry. HPR binds retinoid receptors directly with no conversion step — faster visible results, premium price point. Retinaldehyde sits in between.
0.25% entry, 0.5% core, 1.0% advanced. Launching a two-step ladder is the simplest way to build a repeat-purchase path in the first year.
Ceramides, squalane, bisabolol and panthenol decide whether customers quit in week three. We tune the buffer to your climate — cold, dry markets need more.
Opaque airless pump with an oxygen-barrier liner is mandatory for a 24-month claim. We will not fill retinol into a jar, and we will explain why before you ask.
Most reformulations we take over were dosed too high, buffered too little and packed in the wrong component. Fixing those three things usually doubles the repeat rate.
If your customer is new to retinoids, encapsulated retinol at 0.25–0.5% is the safer first product and the cheaper one. If your brand competes on results and price is not the constraint, HPR gives visible change faster with less irritation because it skips the conversion step. Many brands launch both: retinol as the entry SKU, HPR as the premium upgrade.
In the EU and UK, products above a threshold vitamin A level must carry the advisory wording about sun exposure. In the US, MoCRA-aligned labeling is expected. We flag the exact wording for your market and concentration — it is part of the documentation pack, not an afterthought.
A jar exposes the formula to air and light on every use and puts fingers into the product. Retinoid degradation accelerates sharply under those conditions and your 24-month claim becomes unsupportable. If a jar is non-negotiable for your design, we will tell you the realistic shelf life in writing before you commit.
The questions that hold a first order back — answered plainly, including the ones most factories avoid.
For a stocked formula in a standard component, 1,000 pcs per SKU. A custom formula or a custom component starts at 3,000 pcs — the component supplier carries its own MOQ and the line has to be stripped and validated between runs, so short runs cost us more than they cost you. If you are testing a market, say so: we would rather book a first run into a shared filling slot than lose the project. Tell us the volume you are working with and we will confirm the lowest workable MOQ.
Two routes. A sample set of existing formulas goes out at cost, and the fee is deducted from your first bulk order. Or we develop to your brief: you approve a lab sample, then a pre-production sample made on the actual filling line, and only then do we book the run. You see what the line produces before you pay for the run. Ready to evaluate? Request a sample set and we will send the current set with the spec sheets.
Your approved sample becomes the reference standard. We keep sealed retains from that batch, the production batch is checked against it for color, odor, viscosity and pH, and every batch ships with a COA listing the results. If bulk deviates from the approved sample on any of those parameters, we remake it or credit it — that is written into the contract, not just said on a call. Ask for the sample-to-bulk comparison sheet and we will attach it to your quote.
The base formula is ours and stays shared. Everything you build on top of it — active combination and percentage, texture, fragrance, color — is yours: 24 months of exclusivity in the markets we agree in writing, and we will not sell that combination to anyone else in those markets. You can extend the term, buy the formula outright, or take the full documentation to another factory if you ever move production. Need exclusivity in a specific country? Tell us the market and we will put the term in the contract.
Yes — and we would rather see your market list before quoting than discover a missing document after production. Standard set: COA, MSDS, stability and compatibility data, microbiological and heavy-metal testing, plus the ingredient data your safety assessor needs. Market-specific: EU CPNP notification support, UK UKCPR, US MoCRA facility registration and product listing, and ASEAN notification for the specific country you sell in. Selling into more than one market? Send us the list and we will map the documents to each one before you commit.
25–35 days after sample approval for a stocked formula in a standard component; add 10–15 days if the component is custom or needs a new mould. You get a written milestone schedule — formulation, component arrival, filling, testing, release — with a photo update each week. If we miss a milestone for reasons on our side, we cover the difference to air-freight the balance so your launch date still holds. Have a fixed launch date? Share it with us and we will build the schedule backwards from it.
Every quote is itemised: formula and filling, component, secondary packaging, testing, documentation. Only two things move after quoting — component price (we re-quote only if resin or glass moves more than 5%) and artwork changes made after plates are cut. Mould and plate fees are one-off and stated up front; nothing is added at the end. Want the line-by-line breakdown before you commit? Request an itemised quote.
30% deposit to book the production slot, 70% against the bill of lading copy. T/T by default; L/C at sight or a platform-held payment for a first order if that suits your procurement rules better. Returning customers move to 30-day terms after three clean shipments.
Send us the batch number, photos, and — if you can — a third-party test within 30 days of arrival. Where the fault is ours we replace the goods or credit you, and we will tell you plainly what our own checks missed. We will not ask you to dispose of stock before we have seen the evidence.
Irritation is what kills repeat purchase in this category, so we treat it as a formulation target rather than a disclaimer. Encapsulated retinol releases slowly instead of hitting the skin at once, and we pair it with a barrier-support base (ceramides, panthenol) so the tolerability holds at the percentage you want to claim. If you are launching to a sensitive-skin audience we will propose starting at the low end of the range and stepping up, and we can arrange patch testing before the run. Need a specific active percentage? Tell us the tolerance level you need and we will quote to it.
Yes, and they are moving. Several markets cap retinol in leave-on products, and some retailers set their own ceiling below the legal one. We formulate to the limit of your target market rather than to a single global spec, and we give you the reference your safety assessor will ask for. Tell us which markets you sell in and we will confirm the current limit before formulation starts.
Entry strength, premium strength, or both. Send the positioning and we’ll cost both options side by side within 48 hours.
Every formula below is a working starting point, not a fixed recipe. Adjust the actives, the texture, the fragrance-free claim and the packaging — we re-work it until it sells in your market.
Brightening
10–20% · SAP / MAP / Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Stabilized vitamin C derivatives with ferulic acid and vitamin E. Low-irritation, non-oxidising, water-light or anhydrous formats.
Pore & oil
5–10% · niacinamide + zinc PCA
High-purity, low-niacin flushing grades. Pairs with azelaic acid or alpha arbutin for tone and texture claims.
Hydration
1–2% · 4-molecular-weight HA complex
Multi-weight HA from 8 kDa to 1.6 MDa for surface and deep hydration, with panthenol and beta-glucan for barrier support.
Firming
3–8% · signal, copper & neuropeptides
Matrixyl 3000, copper tripeptide-1 or acetyl hexapeptide-8 systems. Cold-process filling protects peptide integrity.
Tone correction
2–5% · TXA + alpha arbutin
A hydroquinone-free brightening system for melasma and post-inflammatory marks. Stable across pH 5–6.5.